Exploring Baijiu from Shui Jing Fang with family!

The other day, I had the pleasure of tasting a remarkable Baijiu, Shui Jing Fang distillery, during a spicy Jiangxi-style dinner in Switzerland and surrounded by family.

This ultra-premium spirit, hailing from a distillery established in 1408, is a tribute to centuries of Chinese craftsmanship. It is a powerful drink, with 52% abv! The majestic lion on the bottle stared back at me, as if challenging me to embrace the tradition and intensity of the moment.

"Have it with peanuts," Romain told me. "It will help balance the heat."

To add a special twist to the evening, we were invited to enjoy our Baijiu alongside a spread of homemade, mouth-watering dishes from the Jiangxi region. The food was spectacular, bold, spicy, and packed with flavour. Like a roller coaster of spicy emotions! But then came the surprise: even if you were in real need of rice to fight the spicy bites, you weren’t allowed to touch the comforting bowl of rice until you’d finished your Baijiu shot. Let's do this!

Let me tell you, this wasn’t just a casual sip. This was a complete shot of Shui Jing Fang’s special Baijiu, shared with Mei and her parents who cooked for us, and it demanded respect. Even for an experienced wine and spirits professional like me, it was a tall order. The heat from the food and the Baijiu’s potent sting were a fiery duo, a test of endurance and willpower. But that’s what made it so memorable. By the time you reached the rice, sweet and fluffy salvation, it felt like a hard-earned reward.

But what exactly is Baijiu, and what makes it so unique?

What is Baijiu?

Baijiu (白酒), which translates to "white liquor," is a Chinese distilled spirit made from grains such as sorghum, sticky rice, non-sticky rice, corn, and wheat. Unlike many Western spirits that use liquid-state fermentation, Baijiu is fermented in solid or semi-solid states, often in sealed pits or pottery vessels. This unique process not only defines its taste but also connects it to the earthy roots of Chinese tradition.

The Role of Qu: Baijiu’s Secret Ingredient

At the heart of Baijiu production lies qu, a solid mass of coarsely crushed grains teeming with microorganisms. Qu provides the enzymes for starch conversion and hydrolysis, as well as the yeast needed for fermentation. There are three types of qu:

• Big qu, made from various grains, is the most commonly used for major Baijiu styles.
• Small qu, crafted from non-sticky rice, imparts delicate aromas.
• Bran qu, which offers less complex profiles.

Styles of Baijiu

Baijiu is a diverse spirit, with twelve subcategories/styles based on aroma and flavour profiles, where the main 4 categories are:

1. Strong Aroma Baijiu: Fruity esters and a fiery kick, often from Sichuan.
2. Sauce Aroma Baijiu: Savory and umami-laden, reminiscent of soy sauce, from Guizhou.
3. Light Aroma Baijiu: Subtle and clean, mainly from northeast China and Taiwan.
4. Rice Aroma Baijiu: Soft and fragrant, with hints of rice sweetness. ...and more, including Sesame, Phoenix, and Medicine Aroma Baijiu.

The other 8 subcategories/styles: Phoenix Aroma Baijiu, Sesame Aroma Baijiu, Laobaigan Aroma Baijiu, Chi Aroma Baijiu, Mixed Aroma Baijiu, Special Aroma Baijiu, Extra-strong Aroma Baijiu, Medicine (dong) Aroma Baijiu.

Shui Jing Fang’s heritage as a Sichuan distillery and the fruity aromas strongly suggests that it falls into the Strong Aroma Baijiu category. This style is known for its bold, fruity esters and an intense heat that pairs beautifully with the robust flavours of spicy Jiangxi cuisine. The combination was in perfect harmony of fire and flavour during our dinner.

Whenever you have the chance to enjoy Baijiu, remember, it isn’t just about savouring the spirit, it’s an immersive experience into Chinese tradition. The ritual of completing your shot before indulging in rice reinforces camaraderie and respect for the host’s generosity. Whether you're a connoisseur or a curious newcomer, Baijiu is a world worth exploring and I hope I can do it next time in situ. The next time you encounter a bottle of Shui Jing Fang—or any Baijiu—raise your glass to the 600 years of culture it embodies. Ganbei" (干杯) !

Who doesn’t tremble in front of a Giant?

Who doesn’t tremble in front of a Giant? Another Giant!

Château-Chalon’s Vin Jaune is a total legend, and its iconic 62cl clavelin bottle is part of the magic. Exclusive to Vin Jaune, this distinctive bottle reflects the wine’s remarkable journey: six years and three months of aging, during which the “angel’s share” evaporates, concentrating its essence.

The 2009 vintage charmed me with a symphony of aromas (roasted nuts, dried fruits, exotic spices, and a subtle hint of curry), making it unforgettable! Made entirely from the Savagnin grape variety, it showcases a great potential. On the palate, it reveals a perfect harmony of delicate acidity and profound complexity, culminating in a vibrant, lingering finish that evolves with every sip. Aged to perfection, and still with lots of life ahead, this wine masterfully balances power and elegance.

Truly a treasure for anyone with senses, this wine is pure emotion, like a great piece of art, and it makes you feel incredible. For those looking to delve deeper into Jura wines, Wink Lorch’s books, Jura Wine and Jura Wine 10 Years On, are essential reads. Find them at the Académie du Vin Library @academieduvinlibrary) to fully understand this extraordinary region.

Planning Your Visit to Jura?

The Jura region is not just home to Vin Jaune, it is also a wonderland for wine enthusiasts all year round. Depending on what kind of experience you’re seeking, here’s when to visit:

1. September to October: Harvest Season, looking for action

If you want to witness the magic of winemaking up close, this is the busy time to go. The vendanges (grape harvest) brings vibrant energy to the vineyards as winemakers work tirelessly to bring in their crop. Some wineries even allow visitors to join in the harvest activities, offering an unforgettable experiences.

2. November: The Quiet Charm, low season

After the harvest, the vineyards begin to quiet down, and the winemakers focus on nurturing their young wines. This is a great time to visit for those who prefer a more intimate experience. With fewer tourists, you’ll have the opportunity to chat with winemakers and enjoy calm moments in the picturesque countryside.

3. February: Percée du Vin Jaune Festival, not to miss out!

The ultimate Jura experience awaits during the Percée du Vin Jaune, the region’s most celebrated wine festival. Held every February, this event marks the release of the iconic Vin Jaune after its six-year aging period. Picture a festive atmosphere filled with wine tastings, traditional music, and local gastronomy, a unique celebration of the region’s winemaking heritage.

4. May to June: Spring Awakens, mild weather

As the vineyards burst back to life, the Jura countryside becomes a paradise of greenery and mild weather. Spring is perfect for relaxed outdoor wine tastings, leisurely pairing sessions, and scenic explorations of the region. It’s also less crowded than the summer months, making it an ideal choice for serene adventures.

5. July to August: Summer Bliss, high season

Summer in Jura is warm and inviting, ideal for combining wine tourism with hiking or biking through the breathtaking landscapes. Many villages and wineries host wine-related events, creating a festive atmosphere. However, this is a popular season, so it’s wise to book tastings and accommodations in advance.

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Jura Wines: a journey beyond through the glass

Jura’s wines are as diverse as they are distinctive, and no visit is complete without sampling their full range:

• Vin Jaune: The crown jewel of Jura, aged under a yeast layer like sherry, offering intense, nutty, and spicy flavors.
• Vin de Paille: A luscious dessert wine made from dried grapes, perfect for sweet wine lovers.
• Crémant du Jura: Sparkling wines that rival Champagne, ideal for celebrations.
• Savagnin & Chardonnay: Whites that showcase Jura’s terroir, from the oxidative styles to crisp and fresh expressions.
• Poulsard, Trousseau, Pinot Noir: Light yet complex reds with surprising depth, high electric acidity and elegance

Cheers to exploring Jura, a small region with a Giant's personality!

Don’t you know? Talking about Rioja Revolution!

After spending 11 years abroad, returning to Rioja made me think of a Socratic homecoming (I know that I know nothing) filled with excitement and enlightenment. If Rioja Tempranillo’s first clones could talk, they would probably say the same thing. 

You really need to be an insider or a very curious detective to realise what’s been going on in Rioja. You can also be one of the lucky wine professionals selected to become a Certified Rioja Wine Educator, chosen to spread the word about this historic wine region and its latest expressions. These changes have been done with loads of work and enthusiasm, under the umbrella of the regulatory council (DOCa Rioja). They are working together towards the same goal: bringing a taste of Rioja everywhere.  

Don’t you know? Rioja has gone under an incredible wine revolution. While preserving its identity, new grape varieties have been accepted, new vineyard classifications have arisen and the kingdom of wood ageing rule has been opened to new horizons. Rioja, the classic Spanish wine region, now has it all, new blood, skin and bones, and new wines. 

After a wonderfully intensive week in Rioja, I recognise that this is just the top of the iceberg. So what is the taste of Rioja today and what will the future taste like? Rioja, the most famous and timeless Spanish wine region, is more alive than ever. It is everything that you could imagine: it’s young, it’s historic, it’s a great example of oenoturism, and its history is expanding towards a bright future. 

The new generation of wines is as promising as their makers, some of their names, Roberto Olivan from Tentenublo amazed me with the vibrant “Escondite del Ardacho”, the elegant wines from Ukan winery, Elena Corzana and her complex personal wines like the Maturana Tinta monovarietal. There are also others: the atypical and innovative concept winery of Residence Wines, a family project like Miguel y Mila with Ojuel, and their unique Supurao (passito) wine, and other wines like the authentic “Azala” skin contact white from Josean Eraso. Wait, are we still talking about Rioja? Yes! Totally! 

Escondite del Ardacho, Tentenublo               Maturana Tinta Elena Corzana

The Geographical indication “Viñedos Singular” from Rioja bring us to the outsiders, now from the inside. Juan Carlos Sancha or Professor Sancha hits the tasting “Garnacha” Peña el gato! And also the natural, tinaja and granito version. When listening to Juan Carlos, you learn just by breathing by his side. He is not only a well known Viticulture and Oenology teacher in La Rioja, he has also done lots of work in recovering grape varieties from extinction. A grape preacher. We can feel this energy in his wines, also in Cerro La Isa. Other remarkable wineries to mention: Tobelos, Macrobert & Canals, Finca la Emperatriz.

Juan Carlos Sancha

 Pruning workshop at Finca Vistahermosa, old vines from Garnacha

Let’s talk about grape liberation (or acceptation).14 grape varieties are now allowed on the appellation. On the white grape side, keep an eye on Tempranillo blanco. A natural cross found among the vines, it is coming up strong since it was approved in 2007. Besides its famous name, it has a beautiful and almost tropical scent! Viura is the queen of course, while Tempranillo blanco comes in 4th place, after Malvasia and Garnacha blanca. On the red grapes team, Tempranillo is the kingfollowed by Garnacha. Additionally, many consider Garnacha, Mazuelo, Graciano and Maturana Tinta to be the future of Rioja to support Tempranillo.

What about Rioja Oriental? Most wineries had no issue with being called Rioja Baja. They never felt like they were less! (Baja meaning low in Spanish) But now that’s how it is. You must be aware of the amazing quality produced and the great human beings behind the wines. Ruiz Jimenez winery and wines are an inspiring and pure energy as the team behind, as dynamic as biodynamic. They also organize concert nights over the summer under the name of “Atardeceres” (Sunsets). Viñedos en Voz Baja, with Carlos and his enigmatic wines like “Costumbres”, the Tempranillo blanco “El Yergo” from Paco Garcia, as well as the beautiful Garnachas from Arandon and Ontañon. 

                  Elena from Ruiz Jimenez  vineyards

More discoveries to mention in Rioja Alavesa, the elegance of Everest wine from Altún and the complexity and structure of Bideona wines gained my heart and also the savoir-faire and white wine from Luis Cañas.

Bideona vineyards, a morning with Tao Platón

From the idyllic hills of Sierra Cantabria to the charming medieval town of Laguardia and to the historic Barrio de la Estación in Haro, we go back to the classics, as each corner has a story to tell and a flavour to impart. Spending time with Pablo Orio from Muga, Anna from Bodegas Bilbainas, Victor from Roda, Guillermo from La Rioja Alta, and also with CVNe and Gomez Cruzado’s team, tasting their wines is a symphony of sensory delights, full of colours and aromas.

Tasting in Barrio de La Estación

On a historical and cultural note, Briones is key. The Vivanco Museum is a must for anyone interested in the history of wine and its impact on human civilisation. Rafael Vivanco welcomed us at Vivanco’s Museum, taking us on a tour through art, archaeology, sculpture, paintings, astonishing Egyptian ceramics, perfectly kept Greek ceramics showing Dionysian banquets, and even a collection of some of the first bottles ever made! 

We walked by the happy old man from “Sorolla” holding a “porrón”. Wait, that’s a Chagall! And “Le Troubadour” screw opener by Miró! More wine bottles from Juan Gris and Picasso’s perspective, even some grapes by Andy Warhol. For an instant, we forgot where we were. It really felt like an immense space ship gathering the jewels from humanity, while simultaneously finding space and time to turn grapes into great wine. The melody of Rafael's voice flowed like a gentle river, guiding us through the ages with a rhythm that echoed the passage of time itself. 

A special mention for the master of ceremonies of the Rioja Wine Academy, Peter Arijs, and a top professional with capital letters! A Belgian in love with Rioja and spreading his art throughout the region. A real pleasure. As special mention as well to my talented wine colleges I spent the week with, so many awesome wine professional that are already shaking the wine industry. And if you want to learn more about Rioja, here : https://riojawineacademy.com

As we taste Rioja wines, we are also getting a taste of their people. The influence of terroir is undeniable. The different winemaking decisions together with the new grape varieties allowed, new generations, the oldies but goldies, and more flexibility from the D.O.Ca. , are truly shaping the diversity of styles of “Riojas” that are produced. Being a witness to these transformative changes is a truly transcendent experience, and one that any wine lover should not miss.

So get ready, tune in, raise your glass and expect the unexpected when you taste the Rioja Revolution!

Certified Rioja Wine Educators 2023-2024

From Rust with Love with the Queen of Ausbruch

Heidi Schröck & Söhne - From Rust with Love.

After an intense day of tastings and training during the first year S1 Masters of Wine seminar on January 15, we had a special evening with winery tours and small group visits in the medieval town of Rust.

We entered the winery of Heidi Schröck & Söhne through a large wooden door with cinematographic sounds and down little wooden steps. There, in front of some 2100L stainless steel tanks, we met Georg, who welcomed us with a big smile. "From here you can see the whole winery," he told us. Two rooms, one with the 225L barrels and the foudres, and the other with the stainless steel tanks. He added: "Ask anything you want and when you are ready we can go up to taste."

We walked up into the house and gathered around the beautiful wooden table where Heidi was waiting for us. We sat down just as a family would and were treated to an amazing wine tasting, including a vertical tasting of Ausbruch, and even Georg's homemade bread. You could already taste the excitement of what was to come.

We can't believe how lucky we are. Walking through time and vintages with their creators is not something you do without treasuring it in your mind and under your skin. Besides, as we were approaching Heidi's house, the captivating director of the Weinacademie, Mr Dr Josef Schuller MW, had whispered in my ear: "She is the queen of Ausbruch!"

And now we are sitting at the table with Queen Heidi, her son Georg, a great group of wine people, about to taste all their wines lined up on the table.

Heidi has been making wine since 1983, following what her ancestors started 300 years ago. Now, as for several vintages, her sons Georg and Johannes have joined the family tradition. How many wineries can truly say this? : "We do it for love. Small company, big aspirations. Take it or leave it & that’s how we are. Progress and continuity. Everything we do today in our winery is based on this & we believe you can sense it in our wines."

And indeed we can!

Botrytis wines are the result of nature and climate, and sometimes they cannot even be made again for 10 years. Ausbruch wines are made from vines by Lake Neusiedlersee in the town of Rust in Burgenland, Austria. Although the DAC status dates from 2020, the historic appellation has existed since the 16th century.

Ausbruch exists only in Austria, and lies between an Austrian Beerenauslese and a Trockenbeerenauslese in required sugar levels, around 156° Oechsle (minimum of 30°KMW). Almost all Ausbruchs have between 200-300 grams per liter of residual sugar.

Heidi, Georg and Johannes work 10 ha of Welschriesling, Weissburgunder, Grauburgunder, Furmint, Gelber Muskateller, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt and St. Laurent.

Ruster Ausbruch is Heidi's favourite wine, selected from the best parcels of white varieties, but especially from Welschriesling and Furmint, created only in the best vintages.

Ausbruch has a very strict wine law. At harvest they measure the amount and degrees of sugar to get to 8-9% abv and can come back the next day to check how many liters you have. A year in Rust is not always good for all styles of wine. Usually, if it's good for reds, it's not so good for sweet wines. But in 2004 and 2006 it was good for all styles.

Let's start the tasting!

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1. Endel Weiss 2022 Hárslevelü 13% abv

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A very special collaboration with a trendy London wine bar in Covent Garden, The 10 cases. This collaboration started with Alex, who has just launched a new place in Waterloo: Lower Bottle.

Hárslevelú means linden leaf, in reference to the dried flower aroma and a slight reminiscence of muscatel, 48h skin maceration. Fermentation and ageing in stainless tank.

Perfect phenolic grip with a spicy touch. Golden yellow in colour, and an experiment they say! If only all experiments were like this one! Amazing texture, savoury balance, dry white wine that wakes you up (or that you would like to wake up with!)

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2.Furmint Auslese 2015

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The sweetness starts! Only special years like 2015, with a late harvest in October and when the warm Föhn wind came later on and dried the large berries of Furmint bunches. That’s the magic of Botrytis, like the magic of Love, it happens when it happens.

The beautiful label gives you ideas to pair it with. No limit for an imaginative mind.

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3.Beenrenauslese 2021 Welschriesling & Weissburgunder & Chardonnay 11% abv

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"The Picker is the most important person for making these wines" said Heidi. Only 7% in the area are picked by machine, meaning most is picked by hand.

Here are some of my tasting references: less acidic than Tokaji, crisper than Sauternes, less alcohol than both, less vivid than BA from Germany.

This BA was fermented and matured in 225L barrels.

I had written in my notes: spicy peach from Mars, dried flowers, menthol.

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4.Ruster Ausbruch 2021 On the Wings of Dawn – Welschriesling 11% abv

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Medium gold colour and amber rim. Aromas of honey and quince. Of course, hand selected, only botrytis grapes and fermented in 225L barrels. Filtered and bottled after 2 years in barrel.

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5.Ruster Ausbruch 2006 Schröck & Kracher – Welschriesling 10% abv

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Medium amber. Orange peel, fig, smoke. Pleasant phenolic bitterness, fresh and white pepper.

The elegant floral aromas suggest the possibility of acacia barrel. (This is my mind trying to get ready for the practical exams!)

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6.Ruster Ausbruch 2005 Turner – Furmint 10.5 % abv

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Deep amber. Exclusive single vineyard from Furmint (Turner is the name of the vineyard) fermented and matured in new oak barrels for 2 years.

Big party of coffee-like aromas, smoky, baked fig and saffron.

Heidi likes to go with the pickers and make them taste a grape before they start picking, she knows they won’t forget it when they’re picking the right ones.

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7.Ruster Ausbruch 2004 On the Wings of Dawn – Welschriesling & Weissburgunder 9.5% abv.

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Deeper amber color. “On the wings of dawn” the name of this Ausbruch, is a quote from Psalm 139.

It tastes drier and it looks younger, but it is 20 years old! Dried apricot, tension, and aromas of brown sugar. "Not the classic style" says Heidi. I find it vibrant. As you can see already, in Rust they don’t make the same wines every year, and the magic happens occasionally, in different shapes and forms.

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8. Anthologie – Best of 9 Summers 10% abv

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Back to deep gold colour. A blend from the vintages 2014 to 2022. Vibrant aromas of ripe lemon peel, soft sweetness and waxy texture. A great sweet wine and refreshing culmination of the night.  On the side label, they wrote: OUR WINES OPEN DOORS.

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From Rust with love. Dynamic, authentic and vibrant are the wines of Heidi Schröck & Söhne!

Thank you very much for your hospitality, and thanks to the Weinakademie and to the Institute MW. I will keep this memory forever and I will taste your wines every time I can, as I recommend you to do so!

We didn't get to meet Johannes this time, but we felt all the hard work and love of the whole family wine adventure and great teamwork.

To follow along and learn more about Heidi Shröck & Söhne : www.heidi-schroeck.com and here on IG: @schrockheidi

Try their wines as soon as you can!

Tenerife with Carlos Delgado: Let’s be captivated by the wines!

Article dedicated to the master phrases of the tasting of 6 wines from Tenerife by Carlos Delgado at Gastronomika SS 2023, on Monday 9th of October.

Who doesn't know Carlos Delgado? Writer, journalist and critic for 'El Pais' since the end of the eighties. He always leaves his mark, and that is because he is passionate, close, generous in his knowledge and has seen a lot in the world of wine, and he is already back from everything. That gives him an absolute frankness and honesty. A tasting with him makes you fall in love with the world of wine all over again.

And now let's go to his master phrases, one after the other, as I wrote them down, to make you fall in love again, with wine, with Tenerife, and with Carlos Delgado.

Let 's be captivated by the wines!

Let's not decipher the wines!

The orchard of ashes! It is the spirit of the tasting.

The life that rises from the inert, from the disaster.

Tenerife is the largest island, with the highest peak. Its vineyards range from 0 to 1700m of altitude.

Its viticulture is heroic. And the fact that a vine grows there is a heroic deed of the Canary Islanders.

There are many types of Picon 'the ash', from the northern slope, from the south, from below…

Its thin layer absorbs and fixes the humidity. There are black, red, gray, with more or less sand.

The Canary Islands are home to the largest phylloxera-free area in the world. You only have to taste Listán Blanco and Palomino Fino from the peninsula to see the differences in tasting.

There are more than 80 grape varieties in the Canary Islands, many of which are native and only found in the Canary Islands.

If you want to learn more about the varieties here:https://www.canarywine.com/variedades/ 

And here the wines that captivated us:

Tajinaste blanco ecológico 2022: DOP Islas Canarias. Listán Blanco and Albillo. 2 months in French and American oak barrels. We start with the smoke of the volcano in the glass, an expression of the terroir and the marked acidity as a common thread. Brioche, orange, toasted hints.

Testamento Malvasia aromática 2021: DO Abona. Single varietal of the aromatic Malvasia. Fermentation in American and French oak. 3 months on lees. This wine has a lot to offer, aroma, texture, body, tension and length. Passion fruit, roasted pineapple, spices and cinnamon.

Brumas de Ayosa 100% Marmajuelo 2022: DO Valle de Güímar. Here came Carlos' best phrase during the tasting, telling us how to "not taste" like the professionals, with an advanced reprimand full of affection: Let it soak! Don't make a big deal or noise out of the tasting.

Yes, he was referring to that little noise "professionally speaking", to oxygenate and centrifuge the wine in the mouth: the arch-feared bubbling noise of the wine!

What a great wine, an eternal freshness, lemon, melon, and pure electricity between the teeth.

Suertes del Marques Vidueño 2021: DO. Valle de la Orotava. Hold on, there's a huge curve coming (with the varieties of this wine): Malvasia rosada, Negramoll, Vijariego negro, Baboso negro, Listan negro, Tintilla, Castellana negra, Albillo criollo, Gual, Verdello … and more! Reaching up to 20! What extreme elegance and we also had Jonatan Garcia Lima seated behind us. Orotava Valley full of violets, vintage leather jacket, and with Pinot Noir soul. And each master has his own recipe book and Jonatan really knows how to make great wines.

Envínate Benje 2022: DO Ycoden-Daute-Isora. Listan negro and Listan prieto. A very wild and crazy wine. 30% stems pecking the nose, indigenous yeasts in freedom, 8 months in used Burgundy barrels. Unfined, unfiltered and with a minimal dose of SO2. A wine that can give more around a table, than at a quick pim-pam tasting. I will come back to taste you!

Magma de Cráter 2019: Bodegas Crater. DO Tacoronte Acentejo. Negramoll (90%) and Syrah (10%). Biodynamic. Mamma Mia! What a well placed aroma and what a chinese ink in texture and color. Raspberry and chocolate notes, Sacher cake everywhere. Lots of freshness. Silky double-layered texture, blackberries, cherries and a sweetish finish.

Two other masterful phrases:

Retired and tourists do not consume Tenerife (in Tenerife). Neither the light trend, without sugar or alcohol.

Let's take advantage of these great wines from the Spanish wine region with the best future in quality and profitability.

Big hurrah Tenerife and the Canary Islands! Big hurrah Carlos Delgado! And big hurrah Gastronómika!

One thing is clear to me, I am landing in Tenerife this year. It's on my list.

Honorable mention for my gastronomic-festive battle companions: Amaya and Lore! Two brilliant women and professionals in a tasting also with its own brilliance.