Tenerife with Carlos Delgado: Let’s be captivated by the wines!

Article dedicated to the master phrases of the tasting of 6 wines from Tenerife by Carlos Delgado at Gastronomika SS 2023, on Monday 9th of October.

Who doesn't know Carlos Delgado? Writer, journalist and critic for 'El Pais' since the end of the eighties. He always leaves his mark, and that is because he is passionate, close, generous in his knowledge and has seen a lot in the world of wine, and he is already back from everything. That gives him an absolute frankness and honesty. A tasting with him makes you fall in love with the world of wine all over again.

And now let's go to his master phrases, one after the other, as I wrote them down, to make you fall in love again, with wine, with Tenerife, and with Carlos Delgado.

Let 's be captivated by the wines!

Let's not decipher the wines!

The orchard of ashes! It is the spirit of the tasting.

The life that rises from the inert, from the disaster.

Tenerife is the largest island, with the highest peak. Its vineyards range from 0 to 1700m of altitude.

Its viticulture is heroic. And the fact that a vine grows there is a heroic deed of the Canary Islanders.

There are many types of Picon 'the ash', from the northern slope, from the south, from below…

Its thin layer absorbs and fixes the humidity. There are black, red, gray, with more or less sand.

The Canary Islands are home to the largest phylloxera-free area in the world. You only have to taste Listán Blanco and Palomino Fino from the peninsula to see the differences in tasting.

There are more than 80 grape varieties in the Canary Islands, many of which are native and only found in the Canary Islands.

If you want to learn more about the varieties here:https://www.canarywine.com/variedades/ 

And here the wines that captivated us:

Tajinaste blanco ecológico 2022: DOP Islas Canarias. Listán Blanco and Albillo. 2 months in French and American oak barrels. We start with the smoke of the volcano in the glass, an expression of the terroir and the marked acidity as a common thread. Brioche, orange, toasted hints.

Testamento Malvasia aromática 2021: DO Abona. Single varietal of the aromatic Malvasia. Fermentation in American and French oak. 3 months on lees. This wine has a lot to offer, aroma, texture, body, tension and length. Passion fruit, roasted pineapple, spices and cinnamon.

Brumas de Ayosa 100% Marmajuelo 2022: DO Valle de Güímar. Here came Carlos' best phrase during the tasting, telling us how to "not taste" like the professionals, with an advanced reprimand full of affection: Let it soak! Don't make a big deal or noise out of the tasting.

Yes, he was referring to that little noise "professionally speaking", to oxygenate and centrifuge the wine in the mouth: the arch-feared bubbling noise of the wine!

What a great wine, an eternal freshness, lemon, melon, and pure electricity between the teeth.

Suertes del Marques Vidueño 2021: DO. Valle de la Orotava. Hold on, there's a huge curve coming (with the varieties of this wine): Malvasia rosada, Negramoll, Vijariego negro, Baboso negro, Listan negro, Tintilla, Castellana negra, Albillo criollo, Gual, Verdello … and more! Reaching up to 20! What extreme elegance and we also had Jonatan Garcia Lima seated behind us. Orotava Valley full of violets, vintage leather jacket, and with Pinot Noir soul. And each master has his own recipe book and Jonatan really knows how to make great wines.

Envínate Benje 2022: DO Ycoden-Daute-Isora. Listan negro and Listan prieto. A very wild and crazy wine. 30% stems pecking the nose, indigenous yeasts in freedom, 8 months in used Burgundy barrels. Unfined, unfiltered and with a minimal dose of SO2. A wine that can give more around a table, than at a quick pim-pam tasting. I will come back to taste you!

Magma de Cráter 2019: Bodegas Crater. DO Tacoronte Acentejo. Negramoll (90%) and Syrah (10%). Biodynamic. Mamma Mia! What a well placed aroma and what a chinese ink in texture and color. Raspberry and chocolate notes, Sacher cake everywhere. Lots of freshness. Silky double-layered texture, blackberries, cherries and a sweetish finish.

Two other masterful phrases:

Retired and tourists do not consume Tenerife (in Tenerife). Neither the light trend, without sugar or alcohol.

Let's take advantage of these great wines from the Spanish wine region with the best future in quality and profitability.

Big hurrah Tenerife and the Canary Islands! Big hurrah Carlos Delgado! And big hurrah Gastronómika!

One thing is clear to me, I am landing in Tenerife this year. It's on my list.

Honorable mention for my gastronomic-festive battle companions: Amaya and Lore! Two brilliant women and professionals in a tasting also with its own brilliance.

‘Falling Blue’ from David Phinney at Mövenpick Vins

The new wine of the year at Mövenpick Vins! An absolute hit! This wine is by Dave Phinney of Orin Swift cellars, an American in Maury, France, in the Côtes Catalanes!  Yes, the same one who created the wine 'Prisoner' of Napa and put a 'black painting' of Goya on its label. Olé!

'Falling Blue" Wine of the Year 2023, Mövenpick Vins

‘Falling Blue', in the line of his well-known wine 'D66' (homage to Department 66), has a lot of strength and concentration, violets, blueberries, plums, chocolate and a certain sweetness typical of such hot climates. 'Falling Blue' can remind us of a blackberry-picking summer stroll, with an invigorating acidity and an air of adventure.

Unlike 'D66' (with more Syrah than Grenache), in 'Falling Blue' Grenache is the queen: 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, 15 months in barrel, with an alcohol content of 15,5% and you don't even see it coming! A very gastronomic and pleasant wine at a price accessible to all: 23,80 CHF for this great wine! Only one thing, it is only available at Mövenpick Switzerland and Mövenpick Germany.

We stopped by the Cellier Mövenpick Crissier, where David and his wonderful team welcomed us with a big tasting like in the great old days! Always a pleasure!

With the great David Berthet from Cellier Mövenpick Crissier

'Falling Blue' more info Here.

Surprise records by “cognac” Fundador

¡Surprise records! What is this marvel? A total surprise! Look what you can find in the best record shops, in this case, in Dientes Largos  in Pamplona, Navarra, at the 45th Jarauta Street, run by the wonderful Kike Crespo! The surprise records are special editions of 7" vinyl records that were given as gifts by Bodegas Domecq, especially for Christmas, to their customers who bought the "cognac" Fundador. Yes, of course, today it's called brandy, but in those days it was called cognac! Be aware! Once again, grapes and music high five! The campaign started in 1962 and lasted until 1973 and a catalogue of more than 250 7" records was published, some of which had prizes engraved on the record! You could win a car or a TV, a record player, beauty products, or watches. If you got the prize on the record, you had to show up with it at Bodegas Domecq to exchange it for your prize! A little bit like Willy Wonka with the golden ticket - marvellous!   If you find out a surprise record, you are in front of one the most analogue and historical ways of beverage marketing through music.  Certainly a way a lot more fun than creating algorithmic campaigns on facebook and co. Ouh Yeah! Somewhat-real-rhythmic campaigns are much better!

A good start…

The tasting on Friday 27 January 2023 at the Gazteluleku gastronomic society in Pamplona was unforgettable. The Gazteluleku tasting group has been meeting for almost 30 years (once a month) to taste and enjoy our hobby, first a tasting and then a dinner of brotherhood.

Entrance to Gazteluleku, photo by Miguel Osés

It is always difficult to find all wines to be at a great level, and it is normal to disappointed by some. But what happened at the end of January was memorable! We tasted five great wines that have been outstanding and above the average of what we are used to. 1.- Château Pichon Longueville 2015 Comtesse de Lalande Gran Cru Classée. Pauillac

• Intense colour
• Spectacular, powerful bouquet: spices blend with the wood and ripe red fruits. Very balanced.
• Harmonious, intense and long on the palate. Liquorice, tobacco, cocoa and blackberries. Atlantic wine.
• A success to be the first one to taste, without disappointing the great previous expectations. Justified its points and its very good reputation, with life ahead of it.

Since 2007 Champagne Roederer is the owner. Wine grapes composition: C.S 68%, Merlot 29%, C.F. 2%, Petit Verdot 1%. Planting density 10.000 vines/ 89 Has. of 40 years old vines. 18/20 months in French oak barrels, 50% new. 96 Parker points.

2.- LUCE 2015, Tenuta  Luce. Toscana

There is a lot of talk about terroir, a vineyard planted in the middle of nowhere among stones does not produce the same wines as other much more exuberant areas. LUCE shows it both on the nose and on the palate. Think Tuscan lifestyle. That's Luce but in wine form.

• Good colour, the layer is a little less than the previous one.
• Opulent nose, black cherry, blackcurrant, leather and pipe tobacco.
• A Mediterranean wine on the palate with good integrated alcohol, with an aftertaste that lingers for quite some time in the retronasal. You will get green pepper, pepper, blackberries, herbaceous notes...

Owner Frescobaldi. Tuscany. Varieties: 50% Merlot, 50% Sangiovesse. 94 Parker points .

3.- AMARONE DellaValpolicella 2017 Classico Allegrini

• A different wine, made from raisined grapes.
• Deep black layer
• Opulent aroma where you can appreciate the fruit and the well-integrated sweetness.
• In the mouth, it is an explosion of ripe fruit, spicy with good acidity.
• A wine to remember

Ownership: Allegrini. Grape varieties: Corvina, Rondinella and Oseleta. The bunches are left to raisin under cover for ¾ months, which means a weight loss of about 40%.

4.- Altura Maxima Salta 2011 Malbec Argentina

• Possibly the best Argentinian wine.
• Very full of colour.
• Aroma where the rustic and the primary are in line, and impresses with its length.
• An unforgettable mouth, where the rusticity rises to high levels, for its roundness, balance and good passage.
• A wine that most of us did not know and has left an unforgettable memory.

Owner, the couple Hess, from Swiss origin: Colomé Winery. Variety 100% Malbec. Vineyard at an altitude of 2.500m. In Calayate, Calchaqui Valley. In the extreme North West of Argentina. 5.-Chateau la Negly, L´Ancely, Languedoc La Clape 2011

• Languedoc continues to surprise us.
• A good layer, but less intense than the previous ones.
• Fresh aroma of fruit (kirsch, cassis), well integrated and vibrant.
• In the mouth it is harmonious, fresh, pleasant, easier to drink than the previous ones. But with a gratifying passage with flavours of chocolate and spices.

Grape varieties: 70% Monastrell, 20% Grenache and 10% Syrah. Aged in 1500l. casks. 93 Parker points.

Corks, in perfect condition

Unusual high scores, but reflecting the enormous quality of all the wines, and the exceptionality of this selection, which ended to unanimous applause.

The dinner, which in this exceptional case, was a Friday lunch, was a real highlight. Carried out by Carlos Velázquez and Carlos Marañon.

The appetizer An unusual starter. On toasted brioche, a salted butter cream with marrow (recovered from the second course), with a little grated Grana Padano, black pepper and grated truffle on top. A delightful accompaniment to a good rosé wine of Petit Verdot from Ciudad Real. The starter Carbonara is a humble, shepherds' dish. And as a humble dish, it is usually simple and easy to prepare. With two basic premises. One, it has to be finished practically at the moment we are going to eat it. Two, no cream, it is totally forbidden. The ingredients are easy to find and, as a good Italian dish, simple to make. A good pasta, quality eggs of which we will only use the yolks, a good smoked bacon with abundant white streak and extra virgin olive oil. The bacon is poached in extra virgin olive oil to obtain a fat that is deeply flavoured with smoke, and the hot cooked pasta is poured over it to mix it with the fat and give it flavour. Grated Granna Padano cheese and a little of the cooking water are then added until the whole is juicy. Plate by plate, serve as much as you like and break two egg yolks on each plate, stirring again. This simple little trick is what gives the carbonara its unctuousness and delicious flavour. To close the dish, and as we were at a truffle-themed meal, we grated black truffle on top and closed the dish with some thin slices of the same bacon which, with the heat of the pasta, sweat and remain transparent on the plate. The second dish To celebrate the fact that this weekend, the last weekend in January, Peralta is celebrating the 3rd Thistle Day (Thistle or Cardoon, a source of health), we take Julie Andrieu's hand and go to Lyon, on the banks of the Rhône, to prepare the flagship dish of the Brotherhood of the Cardon de Vaulx de Velin, Gratin de Cardons, also known as Cardons à la Lyonnaise. The traditional recipe is prepared with a butter roux to which is added a broth made from vegetables and cane bones. The marrow in this case has been used as an appetizer, and a good portion of grated truffle has been added instead when mixing the sauce with the cardoon. Emmental cheese for the gratin and, when presenting the hot dish, truffle slices on top. Dessert For dessert, the famous La Viña cheesecake, with a good portion of cream cheese, cream and eggs, accompanied by a scoop of cream ice cream. Inside the tart, the remains of the truffle used throughout the meal (80 g of Tuber melanosporum nabarra). Conclusion To make gifts, to arrange flowers, to improve the decoration of a room, to make the most of your clothes, you have to have art. Everything fits together for some hidden reason. That ulterior motive is beauty. When there is emotion in front of something, beauty is present. In this first meeting of 2023 it was a meeting with art, art because all the wines, all of them displayed an outstanding level. Art because the truffle dishes had just the right amount of truffle and were splendidly executed. And art because the comments from all the attendees were splendid. It was a day very difficult to forget and to repeat, because art is not found every day, it is not felt every day and this first meeting in January was simply art. An exercise in art. A very good atmosphere, caused by the great satisfaction of a good drink and a good meal. It was the homage we needed to forget for a while all the problems of everyday life. The combination of the above with a good company of friends produced in all of us a great enjoyment. In essence a good start ...to 2023, which we don't know what it will bring.

Carlos Velázquez, Carlos Marañon, Juan Narvaiza y Ricardo Guelbenzu

Li Qingzhao: “Intoxicated under the shadow of flowers”

Li Qingzhao, also known as Yi'an Jushi, was a Chinese writer of the Song Dynasty (1083-1151), which was also seduced by wine in many of her work.

INTOXICATED UNDER THE SHADOW OF FLOWERS  (Li Qingzhao)

Light mists and heavy clouds, melancholy the long dreay day,

In the golden cencer the burning incense is dying away.

It is again time for the lovely floral games of Chrysanthemum;

The coolness of midnight penetrates my screen of sheer silk and chills my pillow of jade.

After drinking wine at twilight under the chrysanthemum hedge,

My sleeves are perfumed by the faint fragrance of the plants.

Oh, I cannot say it is not enchanting,

Only, when the west wind stirs the curtain, I see that I am more gracile than the yellow flowers.